INTERMEDIATE KNIT
This is an intarsia picture knitting technique, made within a circle shape. The picture is made with 3 yarn colours, and the threads are carried over to knititng position in the back of the knitting, so the floating threads will show only on the back. The technique of intarsia knitting is to twist the yarns around each other when changing colour. This knitting is easy for an intermediate knitter, and can also be applicable for beginner knitters who have some experience with basic shaping. The shaping techniques to form the circle are; knitting two stitches together for decreasing, and knitting into the front and the back of a stitch for increasing. The finished knitting is blocked with light steaming so it fits into an bamboo emboidery hoop frame.
Measurements
| Size | One Size |
|---|---|
| Diameter | 36cm |
Yarn Required
Makr SHERPA PUFF 200g balls
| Balls | |
|---|---|
| C1: Main Colour: Maroccan Blue | 1 |
| C2: Cloud Highlight: Pearl Grey | 1 |
| C3: Clouds: Cream | 1 |
Colour Chart
Difficulty
Intermediate
Needles and Equipment
10mm (30cm length) Knitting Needles
Tapestry Needle
Sullivans Bamboo Embroidery Hoop 14"/35.5cm
Pins for holding knitting in place over bamboo hoop.
Tension
10 sts x 12 rows = 10cm x 10cm.
Knitting Abbreviations
| C | colour |
| K | knit |
| K2tog | knit two stitches together |
| Kfb | knit into the front and the back of the stitch |
| P | purl |
| RS | right side |
| St(s) | stitch(es) |
| WS | wrong side |
Notes
Back Of Knitting
The yarn will be on the back of the row you are working on.
*Front Of Knitting, Or Front Of Work
if you're working on the WS, change yarn colour by bringing the working thread to the front of work, twist with new yarn colour and take new working yarn colour to back.
Changing Colours On The Right Side
Attach a new colour thread to the current working thread in the back of the knitting. Twist yarns around each other, and work with new colour, keeping the threads in the back of the knitting.
If the colour is already in the working knitting, and it is a few stitches back, and you need to knit with it, draw the thread towards the stitch that you want to start working with by draping it loosely behind the knitting; twist threads around each other, before working with new yarn colour.
Changing Colours On The Wrong Side
Bring the working yarn colour forward *to the front of the work, as instructed in FRONT OF KNITTING above..
If adding a new colour, bring the working yarn colour forward and tie the new colour onto the working thread, leaving it in the front of the work (on the wrong side). Take the new colour to the back of the work to knit with.
Untwisting Yarn
At the end of a colour changing row; untwist the yarn balls so they don't get too tangled; or if they get really tangled in the middle of a row, stop and untwist them. As the Sherpa Puff yarn is a really chunky yarn, this is easy to manage.
Clouds
Cast on 6 sts with C1.
Row 1. WS: K1, k into b/f of st for next 4 sts, k1. (10 sts)
Row 2. K1, [k into b/f of st for next 2 sts], k4, repeat [ ], k1. (14 sts)
Row 3. WS: K1, [k into b/f of st for next 2 sts], k8, repeat [ ], k1. (18 sts)
Row 4. K1, k into b/f of st, k14, k into b/f of st, k1. (20 sts)
Row 5. WS: k1, k into b/f of st, k16, k into b/f of st, k1. (22 sts)
Row 6. K1, k into b/f of st, k18, k into b/f of st, k1. (24 sts)
Row 7. WS: k1, k into b/f of st, k20, k into b/f of st, k1. (26 sts)
Row 8: K11 C1, K1 C2, K14 C1.
Row 9: WS: (C1: k1, k into f/b of st, k6), K2 C2, K4 C1, K2 C2, (C1: k9, kinto f/b of st, k1). (28 sts)
Row 10: K10 C1, K4 C2, K2 C1, K5 C2, K7 C1.
Row 11: WS: (C1: k1, k into f/b of st, k2), K3 C2, K3 C3, K3 C2, K3 C3, K3 C2, (C1: k7 kinto f/b of st, k1) (30 sts)
Row 12: K5 C1, K14 C3, K4 C2, K7 C1.
Row 13: WS (C1: k1, kinto f/b of st, k3), K16 C3, K1 C2, (C1: k6 k into f/b of st, k1) (32 sts)
Row 14: K7 C1, K17 C3, K6 C1
Row 15: WS: K9 C1, K4 C3, K2 C1, K6 C3, K11 C1.
Row 16: (C1: k1, kf/b of st, k9), K5 C3, (C1: k14, kf/b of st, k1) (34 sts)
Row 17: WS: K18 C1, K3 C3, K13 C1.
Row 18: K34 C1.
Row 19: WS. K34 C1.
Row 20: K34 C1.
Row 21: C1: k1, k2tog, k28, k2tog, k1. (32 sts)
Row 22: K8 C1, K5 C2, K19 C1.
Row 23: WS: K14 C1, K5 C2, K1 C3, K5 C2, K7 C1.
Row 24: (C1: k1, k2tog, k1), K3 C2, K1 C3, K1 C2, K1 C3, K3 C2, K1 C3, K3 C2, K1 C3, K3 C2, (C1: k8, k2tog, k1). (30 sts)
Row 25: WS: K10 C1, K3 C3, K1 C2, K5 C3, K1 C2, K5 C2, K1 C2, K1 C3, K3 C2.
Row 26: K1 C3, k2tog C2, K16 C3, (C1: k8, k2tog, k1) (28 sts)
Row 27: WS: K11 C1, K17 C3.
Row 28: (C3: k1, k2tog, k13), (C1 k9, k2tog, k1) (26 sts)
Row 29: WS: K14 C1, K12 C3.
Row 30: (C1: K1, k2tog), K8 C3, (C1: k12, k2tog, k1) (24 sts)
Row 31: WS: (C1: k1, k2tog, k13), K5 C3, (C1, k2tog, k1)
Row 32: (C1, k1, k2tog), K3 C3, (C1: k13, k2tog, k1) (22 sts)
Cut the thread of C3, and the rest of the rows are all worked in C1.
Row 33: WS: K1, k2tog, k14, k2tog, k1.
Row 34. K1, k2tog, ktog, k8, k2tog, k2tog, k1. (14 sts)
Row 35. WS: K1, k2tog, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2tog, k1. (10 sts)
Row 36. K1, k2tog for next 8 sts, (k2tog x 4), k1. (6 sts)
Cast off 6 sts.
Finishing
Draw threads with darning needle in the back to neaten.
Block knitting with a light steam, manouvering into a circle shape that will fit the 35.5cm embroidery hoop.
Unscrew the top lever of the hoop to separate bamboo circles.
Pin knitting around inside frame, allowing about 1cm of selvedge over the frame.
Fit outside frame over the knitting (the knitting is inbetween the two frames), and screw lever of bamboo frame to tighten. Remove pins.
